Why You Should Visit the Princes' Islands in Winter
Zeynep Çelik
Culture Guide
The Summer Chaos
The Princes' Islands (Adalar), an archipelago in the Sea of Marmara, are Istanbul's most famous summer escape. Because cars are strictly banned on the islands, they offer a peaceful retreat from the city traffic. However, in July and August, Büyükada (the largest island) is completely overrun by tens of thousands of tourists on bicycles, making it incredibly chaotic.
The Winter Secret
Visiting the islands between November and March is a completely different, highly romantic experience. The massive tourist crowds vanish. The island returns to its quiet, historical roots. You can wander among the stunning 19th-century wooden Victorian mansions in total silence, surrounded by pine forests and mist rolling off the sea.
What to Do in Winter
- Take a Carriage Ride? No: Horse carriages were permanently banned due to animal cruelty. You now rent electric golf carts or walk.
- Eat Seafood: The waterfront fish restaurants are much cozier in winter. Sit by a heater, drink Rakı, and enjoy fresh seasonal fish without fighting for a table.
- Hike to Aya Yorgi: The steep hike to the St. George Monastery at the peak of the island is exhausting in the summer heat, but incredibly refreshing in the crisp winter air.
Which Island Should You Choose?
Büyükada is the largest, with the grandest mansions, the monastery hike and the widest choice of restaurants — the right pick for a first visit. Heybeliada, one ferry stop earlier, is quieter still, with pine-forest walking trails and a working naval high school lending it a lived-in feel. The two smaller inhabited islands, Burgazada and Kınalıada, suit repeat visitors who want almost total solitude in winter.
Ferries and Winter Timetables
Ferries to the Princes' Islands leave from Kabataş on the European side and from Kadıköy and Bostancı on the Asian side — Bostancı is the shortest crossing. The ride from Kabataş to Büyükada takes around an hour and a half with island stops; express services are faster. In winter the timetable thins out and rough weather occasionally cancels sailings, so check the same-day schedule and note the last return ferry, which leaves earlier than in summer — missing it means a very expensive water taxi or an island hotel room.
Getting to the Ferry
On a cold winter morning, waiting for a taxi to take you to the ferry terminal is miserable. From Istanbul Airport (IST), the drive to the docks takes 50 to 70 minutes with a fixed-price transfer from €55. Coming from Sabiha Gökçen (SAW), you are already on the right side of the city: Bostancı pier is just 25 km away, 30 to 45 minutes, from €40. Your driver drops you exactly at the pier gate, timed to the sailing you plan to catch.
Frequently asked questions
Are the Princes' Islands worth visiting in winter?
Absolutely — winter is the islands' secret season. Between November and March the crowds vanish, the wooden mansions and pine forests turn quiet and misty, and the waterfront fish restaurants are at their coziest. Dress warmly and check the ferry timetable before you go.
How do I get to the Princes' Islands from Istanbul?
Take a ferry from Kabataş on the European side, or from Kadıköy or Bostancı on the Asian side — Bostancı is the shortest crossing. The sailing from Kabataş to Büyükada takes about an hour and a half with stops. A fixed-price transfer to the docks costs from €55 from Istanbul Airport or from €40 from Sabiha Gökçen to Bostancı pier.
Are cars allowed on the Princes' Islands?
No — private cars are banned, which is precisely the islands' charm. You get around on foot, by bicycle or in small electric carts. The famous horse-drawn carriages were permanently banned on animal-welfare grounds.
Which is the best Princes' Island to visit?
Büyükada, the largest, is the best first visit: grand Victorian-era mansions, the Aya Yorgi monastery hike and the most restaurants. Heybeliada is the quieter alternative with pine-forest trails, and the smaller islands offer near-total solitude in the off-season.
Do the island restaurants stay open in winter?
The established fish restaurants around the main squares and waterfronts stay open year-round, serving the season's freshest catch to a mostly local crowd. Weekend lunchtimes have the best atmosphere in winter; on weekday evenings some kitchens close early.
Can the ferries be cancelled in winter?
Occasionally, yes — strong wind or fog can cancel sailings on the Sea of Marmara. Check the operator's same-day schedule before setting out, and always note the last return ferry, which departs earlier in winter than in summer.
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